French Techbio company SMEY, which uses fermentation and artificial intelligence to create sustainable cultivated oils, will present its hero ingredient Noyl Silk at Cosmetic 360, the global innovation fair for the cosmetics and fragrance industry.
Noyl Silk is a cultivated high-oleic oil with a unique fatty acid profile not found in plants, offering superior oxidation resistance, formulation stability, and a lightweight texture. Produced without land use or deforestation, it delivers both unmatched performance and sustainability, setting a new category standard.
Beyond technical excellence, Noyl Silk also delivers sensorial benefits sought by consumers, such as a silky velvet finish and no greasiness, while offering functional advantages including deep moisturisation and fast absorption. Its large versatility makes it suitable for skincare, make-up, hair, and scalp applications. Ethical and locally produced, it helps brands meet rising consumer demand for transparent and responsible ingredients.
Noyl Silk was developed through NOY™ (the Neobank of Yeasts), the world’s first combined physical and digital library of yeast fatty acid profiles. At its core is a curated physical library of more than 1,000 yeast strains, seamlessly paired with SMEY.AI, a proprietary system that gives R&D on-demand access to new and sustainable oils and unique enzymes. Together, they go far beyond fatty acid profiling: NOY™ integrates both strain biology and digital intelligence to identify natural yeasts that already produce oils with the desired characteristics. Through the NOY™ Oil Searcher, brands can rapidly pinpoint tailored oil solutions for specific product needs, reducing experimentation cycles and accelerating innovation. This revolutionary approach cuts development timelines from up to 2 years to only 30 days, enabling brands to unlock entirely new ingredient profiles that nature alone cannot provide.
The launch of Noyl Silk demonstrates how NOY™ can address one of the industry’s most urgent challenges: the shortage of natural ingredients such as palm oil and cocoa butter, coupled with new regulatory pressures like EUDR. By combining microbial fermentation with advanced computation, SMEY enables brands to de-risk supply chains and future-proof their formulations with fully traceable, locally produced oils.
“By presenting Noyl Silk at Cosmetic 360, we demonstrate how AI and fermentation can unlock nature’s own solutions, showing the industry that performance, sustainability, and ethics can be achieved together.” said Viktor Sartakov-Korzhov, founder of SMEY.
About SMEY:
SMEY is an AI-enabled Techbio company developing sustainable cultivated oils and fats through precision fermentation. Headquartered in Paris, France and with an R&D center in Munich, Germany, SMEY leverages NOY,™ world’s first Neobank of Yeasts, a physical and digital library of over 1,000 species that gives R&D on-demand access to new and sustainable oils and unique enzymes.
SMEY’s flagship ingredients set a new benchmark for performance and sustainability: Noyl Silk (cHOO), a cultivated High-Oleic Oil designed for cosmetic applications, and Noyl Cocoa (cCB), a cultivated Cocoa Butter tailored for food. Noyl Silk defines a new category of designed oils, with a unique fatty acid profile that delivers superior stability, sensorial excellence, and climate resilience. Noyl Cocoa provides a sustainable, functionally equivalent alternative to cocoa butter, enabling brands to avoid the ethical and environmental trade-offs of tropical sourcing.
Produced without farmland, using minimal water, and with zero deforestation impact, SMEY’s cultivated oils empower global brands to meet clean-label and EUDR requirements while building transparent, future-proof supply chains.
%20(1).png)
