In today’s beauty industry, an enormous number of products are marked as fermented. The term sounds scientific and modern, which is why it’s eagerly applied to oils, and after that, the confusion begins. A myth has taken hold of the market that one can simply take any plant oil, run some process, and obtain a special fermented oil.
But what is the difference between enzymatic treatment, microbial oils, and cultivated oils?
1. What does the cosmetic industry typically call fermented oil?
In most cases, this term is used to describe the following formula: plant oil + enzymatic treatment = fermented oil. Here, the enzymes involved are not microorganisms like yeasts or bacteria but ferments (protein biocatalysts). They modify the structure of the oil to improve absorbability, reduce viscosity, adjust aromatic components, etc. From scientific terminology, this is an enzymatic modification, not fermentation. There is no cellular metabolism, no microbial growth, and no fermentation occurring in these products.
2. Why can plant oils not be fermented?
Fermentation is a biological process in which living microorganisms metabolize substrates to obtain energy. Cells need water, a carbon source, a nitrogen source, micronutrients, appropriate oxygen conditions, etc, for growing.
Pure plant oil contains no water, can not support microbial growth, and is not a fermentable substrate.
3. Microbial oils need a completely different technology
Microbial oils are lipids that microorganisms, most commonly yeasts, produce through their own metabolic pathways. This is not the processing of plant oil.
This is not the modification of existing lipids.
This is de novo biosynthesis, where cells convert sugars into fats. Plant-based raw materials can participate only as a carbon source, for example, glucose or hydrolysates. But the plant oil itself is never present in the process.
4. What does cultivated oil mean?
In formal scientific nomenclature, the term cultivated oil does not exist.
However, in applied biotechnology, it is used to highlight the level of technological control applied when producing a microbial oil. Yeast lipogenesis is highly sensitive to cultivation conditions, including carbon/nitrogen ratio, dissolved oxygen level, feed rate, temperature, micronutrient availability and so on. When the process is not fully optimized, the lipid profile shifts due to changes in metabolic fluxes from switching between anabolic and storage pathways to variation of fatty acid saturation. As a result, the lipid profile becomes variable, and yields fluctuate from batch to batch.
When systematic optimization and process control methods are introduced, the process stops being just fermented and becomes controlled cultivation. Optimization enables the following:
- To identify and formalize the impact of process parameters on the metabolic response.
- To stabilize the lipid profile and yield.
- To minimize batch-to-batch effect by accurately defining critical parameters.
- To maintain cells in a target physiological state for supporting reproducible lipid synthesis.
As a result, oil is formed not only as a simple product of natural metabolism but as an outcome of a process built around statistically validated conditions that constrain biochemical fluxes within a narrow target range. Accordingly, fermented oil is a term that reflects the source as microbial fermentation. On the other hand, cultivated oils are a description of the level of technological control. Consequently, both products rely on the same yeast metabolism, but cultivated oils mean that the process is structured to minimize uncertainty and ensure consistent reproducibility of product quality and properties across the lab, pilot, and commercial scales.
5. What does it mean for brands and formulators?
When a microbial oil is produced not just in a fermenter, but via precision cultivation of wild-type yeasts, it is not the label that changes; it is the level of control over the result.
At SMEY, when we produce a microbial oil not just in a fermenter but through precision cultivation of wild-type non-GMO yeasts, the label doesn’t change — the level of control does. And that difference matters directly to brands and formulators.
Here’s what SMEY precision-cultivated oils deliver:
- A stable, designed lipid profile. Our process keeps yeast metabolism inside a tight target window. The result is a reliable fatty-acid and triglyceride signature, so the oil performs predictably in formulation — in texture, polarity, oxidation behavior, and sensorial profile.
- Consistency you can formulate with confidence. Unlike plant oils, SMEY don’t have reformulation cycles, no batch surprises, ensuring dependable performance and long-term supply security.
- Clean starting material by design. Cultivated in controlled bioreactors, SMEY oils avoid the impurities often associated with crops. That means minimal risk of pesticides, heavy metals, natural contaminants, or plant-derived allergens, giving you a purer, safer ingredient from day one.
- Flexibility without genetic modification. Instead of modifying the organism, SMEY selects the best natural yeast strain and tunes cultivation conditions to reach different performance goals — from ultra-light fast-absorbing emollients to richer barrier textures or boosted oxidative stability. One platform, multiple tailored oils.
In short, SMEY precision cultivation brings luxury-grade sensoriality with biotech-level consistency and purity — crafted in Germany, designed in Paris, and built to scale globally.